Trying to fit RX-RD5... What Am I Doing Wrong?

[theronchaplin]

Okay I'm stumped. I really hope it's something stupid that I'm not seeing LOL. I'm trying to fit my rear wheel which has the Sturmey-Archer RX-RD5 hub but the brackets aren't lining up properly.

There are (2) brackets in question, the brake arm for the drum brake and the fulcrum lever (for the shift cable). In my mind they need to be lined up in parallel, in the same line with the chainstays. I say this because that's what I see in the instructions, and I'm supposed to lock the brake arm to a bracket on the left side chainstay.

Here's the issue:



When I do this the lock washer is 90 degrees off. It should be pointing straight down as I have vertical dropouts. As it is in the above pic, I cannot fit the wheel to the frame as the lockwashers are in the way.



Here you can see I have the lockwashers in position but now the brake arm is 90 degrees off.

The kit came with horizontal lockwashers, so I ordered Sturmey-Archer VERTICAL lockwashers. I figured they should be 90 degrees different. However, the only difference is the vertical lockwashers are beefier.

Sturmey Archer Vertical Lockwasher

Sturmey Archer Horizontal Lockwasher

As I see it it's one of two things:

1. There's some kind of lock washer out there that is 90 degrees off what I have.
2. I can't see the forest through the trees and am missing something obvious.

What say you?

[calfee20]

Yeah this had me going for a bit. I should have warned you.


Your brake plate can rotate to any position. You have to loosen the lock nut #1. That odd washer #2 needs a special wrench. I was able to hold it with an odd needle nose pliers that I have without buggering it up. Washer #2 engages Cone #4 that sets the bearing clearance for the hub. I put my wheel in a vise with PADDED jaws and the drum brake facing up. This photo rotated 90 degrees clockwise. Tape a couple of pieces of wood to your vise jaws. Before you loosen anything spin the wheel both ways and wiggle the tire up and down. This will give you a feel for how the factory set the bearing clearance.

When moving the tire or rim up and down you should not feel any movement or slop but the wheel should turn freely. Now remove 1,2, and 3. #2 is directional so pay attention. You can now move #4 in and out to adjust your bearing clearance. A half turn or so will take you from to tight to loose. Loosen 4 a little so you can feel a little slop when moving the tire up and down and then spin the wheel both ways. Next take the slop out and tighten a little more, maybe a quarter turn. Spin the wheel again. You should be able to feel and hear the difference. What you are looking for is no slop but the wheel spinning easy like when there is slop.

Now assemble 1,2,and 3 but don't tighten 1. Install the wheel in the bike and tighten the chain side axle nut. You can now position 3 where it needs to be and tighten 1 without letting 2 rotate. Be prepared to do the whole vise routine over again only while in the bike because tightening 1 will effect fit.

I have adjusted countless bearings on cars, trucks, and tractors but on little stuff like this not so much. So I did the whole vise routine to get a feel for what tension was needed. You may need a thin bike wrench to make this easier..................calfee

[theronchaplin]

Holy katz!

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this detailed information. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined so this is gonna be an interesting trip!