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  • Robert Larrison
    replied
    You want a steel cassette not aluminum

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    People here have had good luck with KMC, SRAM, pretty much any name brand chain. I've looked at the Connex (Wipperman) e-bike chains, but they're very pricey. At this point, I consider the chain, much like the tires, a wear item that needs frequent change out on these highish power e-bikes.

    It would be cheaper to by a chain reel and cut the needed length, no doubt. Sorry, I don't know how many links your current chain is. I'd consider having that travelling bike mechanic remeasure the bike after the conversion, and cut one for you that you can use as a starting point.

    Hope this helps - good travels.
    Last edited by ncrkd; 06-27-2018, 08:45 AM.

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    Ray, I checked it, out it's the chain ring , socket only, at $60. Of course, I'll need both to start. Maybe later, the socket alone.
    BTW, I finally figured it out about the screw limits. Yeah, i needed a longer screw for the low gear.
    Any ideas to buy a good chain that last longer than the standard ones. Same question for a quality cassette? Where do I start to buy them. And the last question of the day, how do I know the correct chain length? I know Luna can buy chains. I think I can buy a chain by the foot. What do you think? Is it the best place to go?
    When I rode it to try it and I'm very happy with the bike. Can't wait to install the Eclipse 42T when I get home. I'll be gone 18 days.
    Thanks again
    Michael

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    Yep, the Luna Eclipse 42 is two pieces - the replaceable chain ring, and the (not sure what it's called) carrier or spider the chain ring bolts to - you get both (and 5 attachment bolts) for $89.

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    Ray, in the pictures is a two piece socket. 42T? You said you want to keep an extra socket on hand. Do we to buy the whole thing, or just the teeth part?
    I'll order it a week before I get home. It'll be ready for use.

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    On the Eclipse chain ring, this one: https://lunacycle.com/luna-eclipse-c...for-the-bbshd/

    Here's (one of) mine:
    Click image for larger version

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    Congrats!

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    hello Ray,
    Success! I took the cassette apart and then I re-arranged it down to 5 gears. I'm using the other 3 as spacers. Right away, I can even SEE the chain line is looking good. When I buy the special Eclipse 42T, the front gear will be even closer, at least better than we had with the standard 48T.
    I need to buy a good chain too. I should be easy to find I want with a new one.
    I’ll be gone for 3 weeks and when I get back, I’ll be able to finish my project.
    I've had trouble to use the limit screws. I turn either of them with no luck. When I get home, I'll hire a guy here in Kona; he has a mobile shop. It'll be worth it to help me. Anyway, the problem is pretty much done.
    Thanks ago, Michael
    BW, are you using the $89 Eclipse 42T ring? I want to be sure to buy the "magic" front socket. What about the 42T one on sale for $5?

    Attached Files

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    Hi Don (is it Don?);

    On the chain rings, none moves more to the left than the Eclipse 42 (or 48) - it's the magic product that makes certain BBSHD builds possible, like mine for example. I even bought a spare, as I can't do without it.

    You shouldn't need to buy any other shifter, just using the derailleur limit screw should accomplish what's needed.

    "I was awake thinking about it during last night at around 2 AM" - yep, me too - that's the way I do most of my planning, "giving it a think".

    Exactly right on your cassette cog rearrangement - I'll wait here till your done - post a picture or two of the freewheel for others fighting the same.

    Take care sir;

    Ray (sweltering here in the shade)

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    Ok, read your posts. Is the eclipse 42 the ONLY chain ring that makes it better for me? What about the 40 T sprocket? Does it do the same as the eclipse two piece? The 40T (steel) is a lot cheaper. But which one is strongest?
    I already took the cassette off and I fiddled with it this morning. (I was awake thinking about it during last night at around 2 AM) I took it apart, re-arranged the cassette putting the last high gear behind the cassette using it as a spacer. And it worked, although I can see I'll need a new 6 or 7 shifter. In my case, the highest gear is separate, the rest of them are riveted. I found a cassette online and I can see they are all separate. I'm thinking I will buy the 7 speed cassette and then re-arranged it like I did this morning, I'll put the two high ones behind them (cassette between the hub/spoke) using it as spacers. I need the LOW gear, not the high ones. If I do this, I figure I'll gain about 12 mm to make it closer to the chain line, hopefully close enough. Of course, I still have to buy the best new chain ring (front crank), using your idea too.
    What do you think of my idea?

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    P.S. Along the lines of your six speed idea - if your current rear freewheel is bolted together, you may be able to reshuffle the cogs to make a 6-7 speed freewheel, retaining the 34T one in particular - and again, lock out the severe chain deflection, unusable ones.

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    Here's the Reader's Digest version, till my other post shows up:

    Parts, unfortunately:
    1. Eclipse 42 tooth chain ring (the two piece, chain line magic one)
    2. a 11-40 9 speed rear freewheel
    From your picture I think the Eclipse would fit, and would move the chain line 5mm to the left - the max possible under the circumstances. The idea of the 11-40 freewheel is to effectively move the current 34 tooth max gear to the second position in the freewheel. I would then, using the derailleur limit screw, lock out the 40 tooth gear. You'd end up with a slightly easier (lower) low gear than you have now, and approx 9mm less chain line deflection. I'd also make sure the derailleur pulley alignment is correct. I'd also go easy on the motor assist in the lowest gear, 400-600 watts or so.

    I'm hoping the derailleur jockeys with severe chain angle solutions in their pockets will jump in with a better idea, but it's all I have right now. While the BBSHD works pretty well, it's a bit of a wart (couldn't be helped).

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  • dondelinger
    replied
    I'm anxious to read your ideas

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    Sigh ... There's a long post reply from me waiting to be approved by a board moderator - please be patient.

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  • ncrkd
    replied
    'Morning, thanks for the pictures, they help quite a bit.
    Originally posted by dondelinger View Post
    As you can see, the motor is "right there "in contact with frame.
    Ok, good to know we can't get any offset correction here. As you've probably figured out, the BBSHD, while a great product given the design / application restraints, has its limits. So, what can we do?

    Originally posted by dondelinger View Post
    The standard ring has about 5mm to the frame. It's pretty much close. I guess a smaller ring will be closer to the chain line.
    The Luna Eclipse moves left 5mm (good) and is smaller in diameter (42T)(again good) compared to the stock chain ring. So we get 5mm of correction and a little lower gearing for approx $100 delivered. Will the Eclipse teeth clear the chain tube - I am thinking "yes but barely", based on your pictures, possibly rubbing on the paint protector.

    Originally posted by dondelinger View Post
    To me, the front ring and the rear high speed (#9) looks to be perfect aligned. In #1 speed, the chain is warped way to the side. Does this help?
    Yep, that's the usual issue.

    And here's where I have to hand off to those more knowledgeable with minimizing open cog / derailleur offset issues as bad as this.

    Here's what I would consider - taking the slightly unusual step of locking out access to the biggest rear cog via the derailleur limit screw, effectively making the bike into an 8-speed. Then I would replace the current 11-34 9-speed freewheel you have (I think) with a 9-speed 11-40 freewheel, where the second-biggest cog is a 34T. You would then end up with a slightly lower lowest gear (42T chain ring to a 34T cog), and lessen the chain bending.

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