New BBSHD Not Working

[CapeCodRhino]

Hello,
So I would like to share my troubles in hopes that I can get my bike running again and help others facing the same problem. I ordered a brand new BBSHD kit from Luna with a 52v 17amp soft pack GA Panasonic tuned with “hot rod” settings. I followed this build as it’s the same bike as mine. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...le-s-bbshd-kit
The install took about 5 hours and when finished worked great! I took the bike out for a spin that night around my neighborhood and couldn’t believe the power! Seriously, this bike moved very quickly! I used it that night for about 25 minutes trouble free.
The following morning I used the bike on my rear deck adjusting the brakes, setting the clock, minor stuff. Then suddenly the Luna screen goes dark and the motor no longer works. No loose wires or burnt smell, just dead.
Ive followed just about every troubleshooting article I could find.
Tested all connections
Tested voltage at all connections from battery to harness,
Unplugged brake and speed sensor cables,
Jumped proper wires to test for a bad display,
Pulled off controller and tested connections,
and performed a ground and positive continuity test on the controller phase wires.
no luck.
I did notice however damaged/missing insulation on the yellow phase wire on the controller.
I do have a trouble ticket with Luna right now. They are super busy right now so I am hoping for a quick resolution with the forum.
Thank you

[paxtana]

Did you try bypassing the battery? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGibc-kutYA

[CapeCodRhino]

I purchased this charger and hooked it up directly to the wiring harness with no luck. I had it set to 100% when attempting to bypass the battery. Not sure if this charger is capable or not. I would have purchased the “advanced” Luna charger had it not been sold out.
Smart Charger: 52v Mini 3amp Advanced Charger with 3 Position Toggle

[Tommycat]

Tested voltage at all connections from battery to harness.

Jumped proper wires to test for a bad display

Does this include up thru the harness? As in full battery power (58vdc) at the display harness connection pins 1 and 8?

And jumping pins 1 and 2 had no effect on getting the motor to turn over with the throttle after reapplying power using the charger?




Do you have a programming cable?


Regards,
T.C.

[CapeCodRhino]

Tommycat,
Thank you for breathing some life back into my system! Sending power through pins 1 and 8 turned on my display!
However, jumping pins 1 and 2 did not allow my motor to run with the throttle.
I had to disconnect my direct power to 1/8 in order to test the 1/2 jump. When I connect my battery to the wiring harness and performing the 1/2 jump, nothing happens.

I don’t have the programming cable. It was sold out when I placed my order.

[Tommycat]

Good to have some progress! With out power at the #1 pin on the Display Harness Connector the jumper will be ineffective.
We need to find the open in the wiring. I'm suspicious of the battery connector, but you should also have continuity between these points.

Battery + connection and Main harness connection pin #1 (male)
Main harness connection pin #1(female) and Display harness connection pin # 1(male) Don't forget to mirror opposite side connections. ;-)

And the return trip... ground.

Display harness pin #8 and main harness connection pin #8.
Main harness connection #8 and battery negative.

[CapeCodRhino]

Any advice on testing the female connections? The hole is too tiny for me to get my voltmeter probe in there.

Update from Luna:
They are sending out a new wiring harness. They want to try that first before sending out a new controller. I’m new at all of this, but my gut is telling me it’s the controller. As I did get the display to light up by sending power to my existing wiring harness when I bypassed the controller.

[paxtana]

Only way to do that is to stick something like a sewing needle into the HIGO hole, then clip the multimeter lead to the needle. Even a paperclip is too big last I checked. While not impossible, continuity testing HIGO is a lot harder than standard off the shelf stuff like JST.

[CapeCodRhino]

Ok. Just used a very thin copper wire I pulled from a braided wire. I received continuity from - on battery to # 8 “ground” on harness connection from the motor. Also received continuity from + on battery to “P+“ harness connection from the motor.

Then I checked for voltage from the same points with the battery connected.
When I tested # 8 “ground” to battery positive I got 57 volts.
When I tested # 1 “P+” to battery negative, nothing.

[Tommycat]

Ok. Just used a very thin copper wire I pulled from a braided wire.

I usually use a piece of small solid core copper wire that fits snuggly, but a strand will work, if it continually makes good contact.

I received continuity from - on battery to # 8 “ground” on harness connection from the motor.

Also received continuity from + on battery to “P+“ harness connection from the motor.

Then I checked for voltage from the same points with the battery connected.

When I tested # 8 “ground” to battery positive I got 57 volts.

When I tested # 1 “P+” to battery negative, nothing.

Just verifying, is this testing from the same battery access points past both connectors on the controller side, and the 8 pin connector coming from the motor....?

These two can not seemingly co-exist. Absolutely NO resistance??? 8 pin can't be missed. Using it for ground, check the rest of the pins for 57vdc, or at least the 2 on each side of the connector key (flat spot) with the battery plugged in.

But it does verify that the ground wire is sound...

.

[CapeCodRhino]

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=12px]

Just verifying, is this testing from the same battery access points past both connectors on the controller side, and the 8 pin connector coming from the motor....?
That is correct. I pushed the probe into the backsite of the connector closest to the motor while the battery was connected during voltage tests. Same spot but with the battery disconnected for continuity tests.

These two can not seemingly co-exist. Absolutely NO resistance??? 8 pin can't be missed. Using it for ground, check the rest of the pins for 57vdc, or at least the 2 on each side of the connector key (flat spot) with the battery plugged in.

But it does verify that the ground wire is sound...

.

I know it seems strange that I did get a continuity beep testing positive (battery connection) to #1 pin, yet no voltage keeping the meter on #1 and moving the other probe to ground (battery). {All while battery is plugged in}

I can try testing for voltage between 8 and 1, I just tested against my battery connections because I knew they were good.
What other pins should I be testing for 57vdc besides #1?

Thank you so much for your help!

[calfee20]

I do believe that P+ is the only one with battery voltage. Red is 5 volts but you won't get that until the system turns on.

[Tommycat]

I know it seems strange that I did get a continuity beep testing positive (battery connection) to #1 pin, yet no voltage keeping the meter on #1 and moving the other probe to ground (battery). {All while battery is plugged in}

Beeper mode is too general... switch to ohms and get accurate resistance readings.

I can try testing for voltage between 8 and 1, I just tested against my battery connections because I knew they were good.
What other pins should I be testing for 57vdc besides #1?

This is where I need some help. :-)

The way the wiring diagram is drawn, one would think that the connection to the motor is male...? But looking at pictures of the controller assembly this doesn't seem accurate...? And the pin designations all look like male sides...?and I see in your pictures of the throttle connections the female side is labeled 1-5. :-/ so I'm a bit confused! Hence the uncertainty of where exactly #1 pin test point should be.
If you would be kind enough to tell me absolutely which (connector going to where) is what (male or female), I will see that the diagram is corrected.(or if it's just me)

That said, working at the 8 conductor connector the goes to the controller, with your meter common lead in #8 hole which HAS to be in the middle. :-0 Probe with your positive lead on the 2 holes on ether side of the flat connector key spot for a total of 4 tests. What your looking for of course is 57vdc positive... but if the 5 volt regulated supply is alive and shows up (#6), it will tell you definitively which hole is #1! Follow me?

Thank you so much for your help!

Your certainly welcome! I only ask that you don't leave me hanging...lol As I'm in this for the duration. :-)

EDIT: Just saw Calfee's comment... so no 5 vdc will show. :-(

[CapeCodRhino]

Picture 1 Shows no voltage between 1 and 8 pins coming from motor with battery connected.
Picture 2 Shows no continuity between battery positive connecter and #1 pin. "I must have made an error before when I said there was"
Picture 3 Shows .6 ohms between battery negative connector and #8 pin.
Picture 4 Shows no voltage between battery negative connector and #1 pin with battery connected.
Picture 5 Shows 57.8 vdc between battery positive connector and #8 pin with battery connected.

[Tommycat]

Ok so we've verified that there is no power (battery power +) getting to what we think is pin #1. And a good ground wire.With pictures there is no doubt it's a female connector.(will get diagram corrected) But for my piece of mind will you keep the meter common lead on battery ground and probe the rest of the holes (except #8) for 57vdc?

If your not getting 57vdc at any hole I would think that the controller wiring is bad. Perhaps testing while moving harness, especially at at the inlet/outlet of controller housing would show something. But at this point it would seem replacement is required.

[CapeCodRhino]

I have to pause the investigation for a week. I’m leaving today for vacation, going to Williamsburg, VA. Thank you all for your help and I’ll be sure to continue testing my lifeless BBSHD once I return. Btw Luna has mailed out a new wiring harness that connects from the motor to the display/brake levers/throttle. It will arrive while I’m away. I’ll try replacing that to see if it helps once I return. My gut feeling is that it’s the controller though. We’ll see...

[Tommycat]

Thanks for the heads up! Have a great time.

[Tommycat]

Just an update, thanks to Sebz verifying... The #1 hole on the female side connector, which goes to the controller is on the right hand side, next to what looks to be the flat key. The diagram shows the male pin connections going to the main harness! So female would be mirrored...