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Brake Sensor acting wonky?

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    Brake Sensor acting wonky?

    I just bought an E-joe Koda, put about 20 miles on it and the throttle stopped working. Pedal assist was still fine. After a lot of head-scratching I remembered that I had adjusted the position of the brake levers (rotated them slightly downward on the handlebars) since the last time I rode. Of course that couldn't be the problem, right? Well, after rotating them back to the stock position, throttle works fine. I can rotate the brake lever about 10 degrees from the stock position before the throttle stops working. This is only a problem on the front brake, rear brake rotates to any usable position with no adverse effect on the throttle.

    If I disconnect the brake electrical cable then the throttle works in any position, so I assume it has to be the sensor. Funny thing is, I can't recreate it by moving the sensor wire or hydraulic line at the brake handle, only by actually rotating the brake handle past the "critical position". Also don't know why the pedal assist would still work if the brake is telling the controller to kill power.

    I'm a newbie to electric bikes (and to this forum), but I am an aircraft mechanic so I can usually swing a wrench or solder a wire without killing anyone. Just thought I'd see if this is something obvious before I go any further.

    #2
    Some displays have an indicator of when the brakes are actuated... does yours? Is the magnet on your brake sensor effecting your throttle hall sensor when it gets closer?
    See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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      #3
      My display does not indicate brake activation unfortunately. I assumed the sensor was pressure activated as the wire screws into a port on/near the hydraulic reservoir. Is there an internal magnet that activates the sensor? If so, it would make sense that as it gets closer it could wig out the throttle. I'll have to play with it and see what I can come up with.

      BTW the brakes are Tektro, but there is no model name or number anywhere on them. According to pictures on the website they appear to be HD-E350. Can't seem to find a manual however.

      Thanks for the response.

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      • Tommycat
        Tommycat commented
        Editing a comment
        A quote from a seller of the HD-350... " This set of brakes come with cut offs built in (unlike the glue on ones that are unreliable)." and shows the wiring for N.O. switch.
        That's all I know. Time to get a compass out... ;-)

      #4
      I'm pretty sure there is a magnet/reed switch in there. Grab a butter knife and put it between the two...

      https://www.exploratorium.edu/sites/...g_DSC_8121.gif
      Last edited by Tommycat; 07-15-2018, 05:42 AM.
      See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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        #5
        Thanks Tommycat! (love the profile pic btw) The butter knife trick showed that this is definitively the issue. One would think that the throttle and/or the brake lever would be shielded to prevent this issue as they both have to operate in close proximity to each other, but there are a lot of engineering decisions on aircraft that have me shaking my head as well. Maybe I'll just install a small piece of stainless steel and call it a day.

        Speaking of engineering challenges, your bike build is very impressive. I've ridden bicycles for 40 years, but this is my first foray into electrics. Your build chronicles have given me a lot of much-needed background into how these beasts work.

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          #6
          Lol, great to hear! Thank you for the kind words. I don't know about stainless steel, but in your profession perhaps a piece of MuMetal is laying about? Anyway thanks for the post...have a great day!

          Best regards,
          T.C.
          See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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