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    controller problems

    ok about the scooter I think its a 300watt motor could be 350watt I'll post pictures, anyways I bought one of them testers and everything was good but the controller so I got one off amazon that looked as close to mine as I could find watts and volts wise, the controller was rated at 350 watts 36/48 volts , my scooter I think is the 300 watt and I know for sure its 48 volts, so a few questions is how does the controller know the volts and switch 36/48 ? , so I hooked up the controller, I had to cut some connections off the old one and solder them on, and then I did the green wire learn thing , and the motor has no power sounds smooth but no power, but I didn't hook up the white brake wire or the pink one I don't know what it is for ? but I don't think it has anything to do with the power of the motor? Oh, the old controller had nothing written on it ok, I'll post some pictures any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Your electric lock wire appears to go to the negative battery wire...?
    See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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      #3
      Tommycat no its just the way the picture was taken here's a better view, thanks for the response.
      Attached Files

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        #4
        Yep, seemed like too big a softball. ;-) Let's take another swing...

        So I would speculate that the green wire coming back to the E-lock wire is powered thru the scooters key switch with full battery power and the controller is armed.


        Originally posted by cal218az View Post
        how does the controller know the volts and switch 36/48 ?

        I believe this to be done automatically with electronics as most controllers state that if the higher voltage is not present, they will default to a lower one. How this is specifically done electronically is above my pay grade.


        the motor has no power sounds smooth but no power

        This seems a bit contradictory to me, can you clarify? I'm thinking that with everything connected. And the green learning wire connected and then powered. The motor is turning in the correct direction smoothly, but no torque? Or it doesn't respond to the throttle? See continuation below...


        but I didn't hook up the white brake wire or the pink one I don't know what it is for ?

        The white and yellow brake light power would be of no consequence at this time. But my display doesn't show a "pink" wire... can you identify it?

        Continuation... So the motor is spinning under learning mode... when you hit the throttle does the motor reverse or speed up? If not. Do you have a hall sensor throttle? (verses a resistance type one) And If so, is it wired correctly? Did you verify wire color codes at both the throttle and controller? For more information on hall sensor throttles... READ THIS...

        And please properly secure the dead ended wire coming out of your E-lock connector which would have armed the controller, as it's sure to be hot...

        See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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          #5
          So I would speculate that the green wire coming back to the E-lock wire is powered thru the scooters key switch with full battery power and the controller is armed.
          Yes it is 48 voltsThis seems a bit contradictory to me, can you clarify? I'm thinking that with everything connected. And the green learning wire connected and then powered. The motor is turning in the correct direction smoothly, but no torque? Or it doesn't respond to the throttle? See continuation below... with the green wire learning mode connected the motor turns in the correct direction and when I throttle it , it will go in reverse at the same speed but has no torque, it does not speed up just changes direction which is right no ?
          the bike has no torque I can stop it by hand ?
          The white and yellow brake light power would be of no consequence at this time. But my display doesn't show a "pink" wire... can you identify it?Yes the pink wire goes from the speedo to the controller but the new controller has no pink wire ?
          Continuation... So the motor is spinning
          under learning mode
          ... when you hit the throttle does the motor reverse or speed up? If not. Do you have a
          hall sensor throttle
          ? (verses a resistance type one) And If so, is it wired correctly? Did you verify wire color codes at both the throttle and controller? For more information on hall sensor throttles..
          It looks like a hall sensor throttle I will post a picture , and yes I verified the wire color one wire changed from the harness but it is hooked up correctly , and I also checked the throttle with the tester and watched the light go from off to dim to bright as I twisted the throttle , I also tested the hall sensors on the motor with the tester everything was good and tested the motor phase wires they were also good ? but today I put my meter on the phase wires while it was running at full throttle and only got 21.9 volts out of each phase wire I don't know if that good or bad, but yeah when I was saying no power I guess no torque is probably what I meant to say, Oh and that E lock wire I cut it and pull the casing over the wire so it cant touch anything , Thanks

          Comment


            #6
            As the controller has no support for a speedo I'm not sure what you'll do with that...

            From your descriptions everything sounds correct except for the no torque and what I would think to be low phase voltage.(never measured this myself) You did disconnect the green wire after the learning process and during this testing... right?

            And do you have a way to verify battery voltage and amp draw during use?
            See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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              #7
              Tommycat I'm not worried about the speedo, And yeah I disconnected the green learning wire when I tested the voltage of the three phase wires during the full throttle test, Yes I can test the battery voltage, but on the amp draw during use I don't know how to do that and if I even can with my multi meter ? I do have two craftsman 8 function multimeter's ? Thanks.

              Comment


                #8
                I'm interested in what your tester checks for and how... can you post the link?

                I'm leaning towards the hall sensors not being configured correctly. But would definitely be interested to see if you have a voltage sag indicating a possible battery problem with the motor running. Please re-check your hall and phase wiring and connectors. (crimps) Amp meter readings might be helpful. Your meter leads would have to be in series, and in the DC amp mode. But my Fluke meter only goes to 10 amps, and with your controller capable of 13. Too close for comfort. I use this on my bike. it comes with a large shunt that goes in the negative battery line. http://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100.../dp/B013PKYILS

                But for now I'd try running it in sensor less mode to see what it does. You may have to give it a slight move forward. Just disconnect the hall sensor connector. May indicate something.

                If it works well, then I'd try the "old fashioned" way and see if you can get anything better...








                See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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                  #9
                  Tommycat The tester I used can be found on amazon or eBay cheap $15 or so , I'm sure when you see the picture which I will post , you will know of it or probably have ? , ok today I unplugged the hall sensor plug and it runs the same with it plugged in or out same no torque , The tester checks hall sensors and wiring phase wires throttle and more, I did try everything on that chart you posted which I seen before you posted it , and all the combo's didn't give it any more torque it just made the motor jerk and make weird noises , so I put it back the way it supposed to be, I might buy that amp meter link you posted , but for now I think I going to buy another controller , Do you have any suggestions or links to a good controller , I'm going to stay far away from brain power controllers, Oh and the controller I bought didn't come with any instructions and no tags on the plug in's , so I found one on google that had the same connections and there was the one plug in that was looped called cruise constant speed ? you would think unplugging it would give it more speed or toque but it didn't do anything plugged or unplugged or in learning mode ? ok here's the pictures of the tester and controller plug id.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for the pictures. The cruise function on my internal controller works by shorting the wires momentarily together with a momentary push button at the speed desired.. That will hold the throttle setting (with it released) at the point where you hit the button. It will release with another push of the button or by actuation of the throttle above the set point. I speculate that having it jumped eliminates accidental actuation.

                    As the controller sounds like it's being consistent. :-/ Have you eliminated the battery as a cause? Is it new? Other than mentioning it's 48 volts not much has been said. I would surely take a voltage reading on it while testing and under load as mentioned previously before ordering a new controller..

                    Other wise I'm stumped... :-( I've only just looked at Kellys for their extensive programmability and features. (variable regeneration) Which may be the way I go next, but they are $$$.
                    See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

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