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    Controlled fried?

    Hello,
    I'm very new to all this so please bear with me..
    Yesterday as I was leaving work, my 3 phase hub motor spun out of the bike's dropouts. The motor cable got twisted around the axle, and now the bike won't go anywhere. I tested the phase wire running out of the motor, and they all show low resistance. So I'm guess they're not the issue.
    Unfortunately when I tested the hall wires (black and red), a reading of 0V was returned. Fried controlled? Or the motor? Or both?
    My LCD3 also shows that the battery is totally drained, even though it's fully charged..
    Any help is much appreciated!
    Cheers

    #2
    Sorry, seems I posted twice..

    Comment


      #3
      Perhaps tore out the phase wires? Broken conductors, but ok controller? Remove, strip wiring, or get to both ends, and check continuity, however is appropriate for the parts at hand.

      Best guess for something to look for, before scrapping it.

      Good luck.
      Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by JPLabs View Post
        Perhaps tore out the phase wires? Broken conductors, but ok controller? Remove, strip wiring, or get to both ends, and check continuity, however is appropriate for the parts at hand.

        Best guess for something to look for, before scrapping it.

        Good luck.
        Well the phase wires seem to be OK, since they returned a low resistance when I tested them (a high resistance would indicate broken wires apparently).

        Comment


          #5
          Just received my brand new $4000 Sur-Ron X. It was DOA. Bike will not run but for a few minutes. Luna has told me to stand in line and they will get to my problem when they have time. Has anyone else had issues with a brand new Sur-Ron X that quickly drops voltage to the point it will not operate? Thanks..

          Here is a video that shows the voltage drop when the switch is turned on. I have sent these videos to Luna with no offered solution.

          https://youtu.be/Q6XTRQPUxxo

          Comment


          • mooseefus
            mooseefus commented
            Editing a comment
            Luna is sending a new controller in hopes this will remedy the problem. *Scheduled delivery: *Thursday 7/25/2019 by end of day

          • mooseefus
            mooseefus commented
            Editing a comment
            New X Controller arrived and we replaced the original controller. Bike still runs a few minutes and shuts off. Nothing has changed.

          #6
          Hi Marc123,

          I'm thinking that a loss of battery charge indication on the display is caused by lack of communication. Which typically happens when the controller is not outputing 5vdc regulated voltage. Your motor hall sensor supply voltage test would seem to confirm this. If lucky perhaps your hall sensor wires are just shorting this supply voltage, and can be corrected before the regulator is damaged... At least start by isolating the motor wiring from the controller, and then testing for the 5vdc, say at the throttle supply.
          My main concern is that you find and correct the possible short in the motors hall sensor wiring before replacing the controller, to possibly avoid getting a new one or damaging the new controller.



          Regards,
          T.C.
          See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by Tommycat View Post
            Hi Marc123,

            I'm thinking that a loss of battery charge indication on the display is caused by lack of communication. Which typically happens when the controller is not outputing 5vdc regulated voltage. Your motor hall sensor supply voltage test would seem to confirm this. If lucky perhaps your hall sensor wires are just shorting this supply voltage, and can be corrected before the regulator is damaged... At least start by isolating the motor wiring from the controller, and then testing for the 5vdc, say at the throttle supply.
            My main concern is that you find and correct the possible short in the motors hall sensor wiring before replacing the controller, to possibly avoid getting a new one or damaging the new controller.



            Regards,
            T.C.
            I tested the throttle to see if it was being supplied power, and indeed it was receiving roughly half a volt (not 5v, is this normal?)
            Also, this model of motor doesn't actually require hall sensors in order to function. In fact it worked with the 5 pin hall cable completely disconnected.
            So..I'm at a loss. Is there a way to check if the motor is being supplied power?

            Comment


              #8
              The normal supply power for the throttle is typically 4.35vdc to 5vdc. Once again pointing to a damaged or shorted reg in the controller. That would also keep the controller from providing the motor power as the throttle request would be too low. Try disconnecting all the motor wires to get the 5vdc power back...
              See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by Tommycat View Post
                Rry disconnecting all the motor wires to get the 5vdc power back...
                What do you mean? I've disconnected and reconnected the motor wires a number of times.

                What's odd is that all the motor wires seem to be fine..I see nothing that would have caused them to short. Maybe just fact that I tried to power the motor when it was jammed was enough to short the regulators in the controller?

                Comment


                  #10
                  Originally posted by Marc123 View Post
                  What do you mean? I've disconnected and reconnected the motor wires a number of times.
                  It's clear that we don't have 5vdc power from the controller. I'm thinking that when the cable got wrapped around the axle, the internal wiring insulation got stripped and shorted the 5vdc input power to the hall sensors. (or something worse)

                  My recommendation would be to disconnect everything from the controller, that uses this 5vdc controller power,(including wiring harnesses) to see if some external problem is shorting it out. So disconnecting everything except for the battery and display, then seeing if the 5vdc comes back with all other components removed from the equation.

                  Bottom line... get the 5vdc back! Obviously the display must be turned on to energize the controller's electronics. Thinking if the battery charge display starts working on the display, your controller has a chance.

                  This is a step down voltage regulator we are talking about. https://components101.com/78l05-pino...lent-datasheet I don't think trying to start a jammed wheel would specifically target this component for failure.

                  Afterward you could check the motor's hall sensors and wiring operation according to this thread. They should not pull more than 25mA from your temporary 5vdc supply. I like using a 5vdc rechargeable USB power battery.

                  https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...tor-controller

                  More specific information on your equipment may help in more accurate questions/recommendations. ;-)

                  See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Originally posted by Tommycat View Post

                    (including wiring harnesses)

                    More specific information on your equipment may help in more accurate questions/recommendations. ;-)
                    What's a wiring harness?

                    Here's my model:
                    https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...7beb3749MBBK1C

                    Comment


                      #12

                      I'm not sure if this means anything, but as soon as I turn on the ebike, there's a small grey resistor on the controller that gets VERY hot.

                      Comment


                      • Tommycat
                        Tommycat commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Is this with everything still connected? I never turn down pictures.

                      #13
                      The cable that may consist of several conductors that go between the controller wire connector, and the external individual components. Example...





                      Thanks for the link.
                      Last edited by Tommycat; 07-20-2019, 06:41 AM. Reason: Added Pic.
                      See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

                      Comment


                        #14
                        Originally posted by Tommycat View Post
                        .

                        This is a step down voltage regulator we are talking about. https://components101.com/78l05-pino...lent-datasheet I don't think trying to start a jammed wheel would specifically target this component for failure.
                        I found the 78M05HP 5V regulator on the controller. Is there any way to test it, or bypass it momentarily?

                        Comment


                          #15
                          Originally posted by Marc123 View Post

                          I found the 78M05HP 5V regulator on the controller. Is there any way to test it, or bypass it momentarily?
                          Look at the pin-out in the data sheet. You can test the voltage in, and also the voltage out. Note that you will have another voltage drop reg between your 48 vdc battery and the input of the 5 vdc reg as it's max input is 30vdc.

                          I have seen recommendations for putting a 5vdc battery hooked up to say the PAS sensor input wiring to test temporarily. And if that works to use an external drop down voltage converter. But have never seen a successful out come. Probably because the effort and cost would be more than a new controller.

                          See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.

                          Comment

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