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LCD works but throttle doesn't

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  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hi Eclipse7769,
    And welcome to the forum! :-)

    Have you checked thru the programmable settings? Verifying the correct setpoints you desire. You might want to specifically look at P4 (page 21) and C4 (page 24) in manual #1. As they deal directly with the throttle (AKA Handlebar) operation. As described in the manuals below...

    #1 http://www.bizobike.com/uploads/5/7/...ke-kt-lcd3.pdf or

    #2 https://880b28d3d003e6b1c176-ee91599...en_KT-LCD3.pdf


    Regards,
    T.C.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eclipse7769
    replied
    I just installed the KT-LCD3 Display. No throttle control. Thankfully , I left the original 880 on, and switched back the connection. It works perfectly on the CSC 48v motor. On new KT I I've set to 0 no throttle. I've set 1-5. No throttle i get nothing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hi Candango,

    Glad to hear you got the answer to the problem! No fair that the display was giving miss-information, but It re-enforces my belief to always check and verify with a meter.



    Originally posted by Candango View Post
    Does one test the controller or just pitch it and get another? The battery undoubtedly has some bad cells, but does one send it for rebuilding or just get another?
    Candango

    As far as the controller is concerned, if you can live with a deceptive voltage indication,( I couldn't) and everything else works well you could use it till a replacement could be bought. If desired I suppose the you could try a new display. It's the all new verses, remove and replace individual components trouble shooting delema that can hit. Depends on your pocket book and how well you like your existing system. Does it do everything you'd like?

    The battery IMHO is less difficult. It sounds to be several years old, and with a total of 10 volts DC over a combined 13 cell groups in series. Would not be safe to recharge or recover, with too many dead, and the rest too aged for repair. Not that I'm trying to spend your money, but I'd recommend you look into a new battery. ;-)

    Thank you for checking back and letting us know how it's going!

    Leave a comment:


  • Candango
    replied
    Tommycat, Many thanks for the guidance. Murphey's Law seems to be very active in regard to this trike. After some research, I located a bike shop specializing in e-bikes in general. After discussing the situation, they suggested I bring the battery and the trike to the shop. A neighbor was able to get me and the trike to the shop. I had recently charged the battery. The idiot light on the charger indicated green. The KT-LCD3 screen showed a 53.4 v charge. We connected the battery to a voltmeter in the shop and it registered 10 v. Oops. I repeated the tests I had run for the mechanic. When lifting the rear wheel, the battery had enough juice to spin the wheel. When a load was applied (me sitting on the seat), it died. We then tested with a spare battery the shop had. It read 53 v on the voltmeter, the same on the KT-LCD3 screen, and was able to move the trike. We concluded my battery had a problem and the controller may also have a problem (for showing high voltage instead of the 10 v the battery actually had).

    We examined all the connections from the controller and all were solid. I am not sure of any next steps. Does one test the controller or just pitch it and get another? The battery undoubtedly has some bad cells, but does one send it for rebuilding or just get another?

    I collected the bike the next day (after the mechanic had done some unrelated mechanical repair), and pedaled it 15 miles home. With the added weight of the motor, it was not really designed for pedaling. It would be nice to be able to repair the system. For the time being, I dismantled the motor system and returned the trike to its original 3x10 pedal basis. Believe me, it is a lot lighter to pedal up the hills. Cheers

    Candango

    Leave a comment:


  • tklop
    commented on 's reply
    Glad to help! Seemed wise to toss the latest manual on the pile. All the best, TC!

  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hi Candango,

    It sounds to me like a classic example of a bad battery connector, or wiring from the battery, to the connector... then on to the controller. Somewhere in there) For accuracy I don't think I would ever depend on a display's battery charge indicator. Unless it has a verified accurate battery voltage display. So grab your meter, and see if your losing any voltage across these connections. For information on checking your battery, and seeing if it's getting charged correctly. Check out this thread...

    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ctrical-issues

    From your description it sounds like you do not have to reset the battery in order to get power back? As in reset BMS...

    So much for softballs... :-P

    tklop, thanks for the updated manual!. ***Bookmarked***



    Regards,
    T.C.

    Leave a comment:


  • tklop
    replied
    Here's a newer version of the KT-LCD3 manual (from my motor's vendor).

    (The one from bizobike is for the 1.0 version, this one is for the 3.0 version).

    LCD3 manual.pdf
    Attached Files
    Last edited by tklop; 09-01-2019, 04:13 PM. Reason: for clarity

    Leave a comment:


  • Candango
    replied
    Tommy Cat, again, many thanks. I had thought all was resolved. NOT. It appears Murphy reigns supreme. Maybe. After I had gotten the system working, I charged the battery and took the trike for a one mile test. All worked well. Back home, I disconnected the battery, covered the trike, and left it for a week. When I returned, KT-LCD3 showed full charge. As a test, I lifted the rear wheel and applied the throttle; the wheel spun. Good. I moved the trike out to ride it, sat down and applied the throttle. I could feel a momentary surge (power to the motor), and then nothing. zero. The screen went blank. The KT had been switched off. I was able to reset it several minutes later. It showed full power. I repeated the test. Same results. Zero power. I suspect the battery, despite showing a full charge, is down to zero capacity. As soon as any real load is placed on it, it goes to zero. I brought it to a battery place which had told me they could test it. But their equipment could not handle the 48 volt battery; they are used to dealing with lower voltage. I may need a new battery but I would like to verify this before I purchase a new one. Do you have any thoughts on the matter? Thanks in advance. Candango

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    Originally posted by Candango View Post
    I confess I don't understand the logic. Can you suggest a resource which will tell me why a setting of "not 0" is necessary if the PAS transmitter and sensor are not installed?

    I don't know about a rescource. But your typical "pulse" PAS sensor could be thought of as just an on/off switch, that tells the controller that your pedalling. (albeit with rapid pulses of low voltage)
    The only logic I could see would be if the rider wanted to take advantage of the electronics of the display... say speedo, trip counter, lighting, ETC. But not the motor boost. Therefore needing an "off" position to disable the motor usage. 0 PAS setting being just that.

    Best manual I've seen on the KT-LCD3... but not all are programmed the same.

    http://www.bizobike.com/uploads/5/7/...ke-kt-lcd3.pdf

    Glad you resolved the issue! I like softballs like that... :-)
    Last edited by Tommycat; 08-16-2019, 07:10 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Candango
    commented on 's reply
    TC, Thanks for the suggestion. I don't know why, but it worked. As I mentioned, the original owner had set it up a few years ago. He was not able to install the PAS transmitter and sensor (not enough room on the bottom bracket axle on the trike, so he just used it in throttle only. But I noted that the PAS setting was "1". It had been working quite nicely in the "on demand" mode. I just changed it to "0", thinking that since the PAS was not being used, there was no need for a setting. Oops. My bad.

    I confess I don't understand the logic. Can you suggest a resource which will tell me why a setting of "not 0" is necessary if the PAS transmitter and sensor are not installed?

  • Candango
    replied
    Thanks. I will give it a try. The PAS was never connected on the trike and the original owner just used the throttle. The PAS setting had been 1, but I recently changed it to 0, as it was not being used. It would be funny if that were the cause of the problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tommycat
    replied
    Hi Candango,
    And welcome to the forum!

    Make sure your PAS setting is anything except 0 and try it again... :-)


    Regards,
    T.C.

    Leave a comment:


  • Candango
    started a topic LCD works but throttle doesn't

    LCD works but throttle doesn't

    The KT LCD-3 display unit on a 48v e-bike (e-trike) conversion works. It shows all the standard info, including 52v in the battery and the ambient temp (in the lower right corner). But when I activate the throttle, the temperature display switches to a version of a rotating square and no power goes to the motor. So there seems to be communication between the throttle to the controller to the LCD, but not to the motor. Has anyone seen this same image on the LCD display? I have checked the controller looking for loose or disconnected wires and found nothing there. I am not sure where the failure may be. The trike had worked perfectly until a few days ago. Then, without obvious reason, this problem arose. Help! Thanks
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