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BBSHD rotated into my Wolf V2 and tore the XT90's right off the board.

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    BBSHD rotated into my Wolf V2 and tore the XT90's right off the board.

    Couple of questions about my Wolf V2 52v pack. What happened was I needed more clearance to mount the pack under the front bar. So I rotated the motor down like an idiot so the battery could sit lower. Worked well up until 15km's into a 36km trip to work the motor rotated up and pinched the connectors right off. Pic shows the bare board and my wires to recharge and get home. Bike wiring is exactly the same at this point(until XT-60's come in.)

    1 - Can I just solder the XT-90's back on(after cutting the pack dip sealer to get at it) and cross my fingers?
    2 - Can I just power the motor with the XT-60? (52v)
    3 - Is it safe to solder on the hot lead?


    Hey I want to suggest going with longer cord s soldered from battery and the should be a female soldered xt 90.


      Yikes, that must have been quite a lot of force. I do not think this is salvageable. Cutting into the resin seems risky.

      Powering from the xt60 would be a fire risk as it bypasses the bms. Any short on the xt60 will not get power cut by the bms.

      Yes in theory you can solder on a wire that has power flowing through it. But you know, if solder were to drip from positive to negative it could be dangerous (as could shorting any of this out while working on it)


        Thanks for the advice. Running wire from the board is an opportunity for more clearance I guess. I had no idea the xt60 was that risky. The resin is still intact and the "holes" still give me a voltage reading so with any luck the bms is okay. But how do I even test/know if it's working properly? I've got some reading to do. Thanks again.


          And the fix. Held it vertical and kept the solder to a minimum. Shrink wrap plus RTV for good measure and moisture(and to keep vibes down?). Sorry for the double post, wanted to follow up. Thanks again.


          • JPLabs
            JPLabs commented
            Editing a comment
            Hey, nice attempt, there! I bet that's going to hold up OK. Seems a very credible DIY repair to me.

            The failure mode is interesting, too, the way the wires just seem to have sheared the solder and pulled out. So you could fix it.

            Tough battery, mechanically, eh?

            Can you explain more details of how you soldered it? Do you think you got good melt and wetting inside the connector? I assume you heated the wire after insertion, to get the joint hot enough to flow, then soldered as usual; is that right?

            Did you do any intentional cooling to keep the nearby plastic/epoxy from melting?

          Just open the battery compartment up & solder new wires to the BMW. That should be OK then put some new tx60 connection blocks back on.