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Bionx Troubleshooting Help Needed

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    Bionx Troubleshooting Help Needed

    Good day, Everyone,

    My name is Rob and I'm brand new here, and new to the e-bike community.

    I've recently bought a 2011 Terratrike Cruiser with a Bionx 37v kit with a G2 Console. It worked OK for a few weeks, but didn't have that great of a rage. However now, when I turn it on, it will immediately turn off. If I'm persistent and keep trying to turn it on, it will come on, Powr Prot will appear, without the battery meter displaying. I did some research, and of course, found out Bionx is out of business, but only found troubleshooting tips to clean the connectors.

    I've disconnected all the wiring connections and cleaned them with contact cleaner and it did not change anything. I measured the battery voltage and it was 41v. 4 volts over, not sure I should be concerned. When the display turned on, the voltage dipped 0.1v to 40.9v.

    So, a few questions:
    1. Has anyone had this issue before? If so, how did you fix it?
    2. Is the control module inside the battery case? Are they prone to failure? How can you diagnose it?
    3. As this is a 37v system, could I change to a 48v battery and are the other components compatible?
    4. I had a tendency to leave the charger plugged in for days at a time. Although I know the charger would turn off, could one damage the battery by doing so?

    Thank you in advance!

    Last edited by RobC; 09-02-2019, 07:41 PM.

    I have a couple of BionX systems, with a 36 volt and a 48 volt battery. They seem to be interchangeable but I may have had an error when I got the 36 volt system which was the second one and I may have taken it to the shop to clear the error before BionX went bankrupt. I don't remember. The 36 or 37 volt battery should be at 40+ volts fully charged. My 48 volt battery on a non-BionX trike measures 53 volts fully charged.

    1. I have had issues. One "fix" I heard about lately is to reboot the system by holding the power and minus keys when the system is powered up. If you do it right you'll see a count down from 10 to zero. My 36 volt system seems to work better, at least for a while.
    2. The control module is inside the wheel hub. This simplifies wiring but some have criticized this because the controller is in a heat zone. The usual failure in the hub is that the torque sensor becomes unglued from the axle. Again a heat issue. (I have 2 wheels. One wheel develops a "cogging," last time after 7 miles. Heat? Don't know.)
    3. For me, software version 6.4 or 64, the components are interchangeable, but again, I probably re-registered the systems.
    4. You probably shouldn't leave the charger plugged in.

    5. There are MOSFETs inside the battery compartments that can go bad. Also the BMS, battery management systems, in the 48 volt batteries are suspect. Some people on Endless Sphere, (search BionX), claim that BionX switched from German built to Chinese built batteries when they went from 36 to 48 volt batteries.
    Russell Graves at has opened a number of BionX batteries and re-celled some of them. He especially liked the 36 volt batteries because of a cell chemistry the batteries were self balancing and didn't need a BMS. I don't know if putting new cells in a 36 volt BionX battery box will work without the BMS if they are not the right chemistry.

    How old is your BionX system? Is it from 2011? The early systems used Ni-Cad batteries I think. If so that would explain the low range. Another possibility is that you have a BionX battery that was sold as a "budget" battery which gives low range. My 36 volt rack mounted battery has 40 18650 cells in a 10S4P configuration. There is room for 60 of those cells in that battery case.

    John Nethers is a battery rebuilder on eBay. Just do a search on BionX and you will find him. But now I see you are in BC. I'd just go to Grin Tech for advice on battery rebuilding. Justin was working with BionX before they went bankrupt so he has had experience with them. And he certainly likes hub motors.