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Anyone using or have tried a 'dry' or wax chain lube?

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  • us56456712
    commented on 's reply
    The pros wash chains. Some pro mechanics for the racers remove the chain, shake it for 10 minutes in a jar of Goo Gone, then shake it for ten minutes in Simple Green, then scrub it with Dawn and a brush, then a boiling or warm water rinse and once dry hand work chain lube into each link. They also use this process using an ultrasonic bath instead of shaking if there is electricity available. This gets it as clean as possible. I guess they don’t worry about driving grit in, they want performance and toss chains way more than the rest of us. I use the shaking process myself and it works well, unless the chain is really badly neglected with rust.
    Last edited by us56456712; 05-13-2021, 06:10 AM.

  • TNC
    replied
    Originally posted by 73Eldo View Post
    I have a 36-42 for my low combo on my 29er street bike and the BBSHD can get my fat ass up hills just fine. I think one thing that helps is that since its my street bike that conditions are usually good enough I can get some speed up to keep me and the motor happy rpm wise. On the trails where there may be 'features' on the uphill climbs its a different story and my 42-42 combo on the fat bike with still me being fat just barely gets me up some of the blue trails and it was borderline on plowing through snow. IF I want to get any more aggressive I will have to look into something in that 50 range which will be a new derailleur too since my current one can barely handle the 42.

    Lube wise I am still happy. Yesterday I had to pull the rear wheel to remove my fenders so that meant handling the chain and it was no big deal at all, I think I just wiped my hands with a dry paper towel. Not quite clean enough to eat but plenty clean to keep working on the trail bike. If I can get a year which will hopefully be at least 1000 miles out of a $20-40 chain using this stuff I will be thrilled. I do wonder how much or if any of the Squirt is getting into the pins. I'm thinking some has to be getting in there or else it would squeak? So far my plan is to re lube roughly weekly which should be 100-200 miles unless it gets wet then will likely do an extra lube.
    We've been selling the Squirt at the shop I work at, but I don't personally know any of the riders that are using it to get any real world feedback. I've have looked at the actual fluid, and it struck me as something akin to the original White Lightning...except correct me if I'm wrong...but perhaps no claim of petroleum product? I'm not at the shop today, so I can't go look. It's got that thicker consistency of the old WL from the looks of it. I liked the old, thick WL, and I don't think they even make that anymore...perhaps? I don't order the stuff at the shop, so I'm not up on it. I just haven't seen the old style bottle anymore...just Clean Ride which still works to my satisfaction. I'm still a believer in having a lube that has the ability to get down into the chain elements for ultimate effectiveness.

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  • 73Eldo
    replied
    I have a 36-42 for my low combo on my 29er street bike and the BBSHD can get my fat ass up hills just fine. I think one thing that helps is that since its my street bike that conditions are usually good enough I can get some speed up to keep me and the motor happy rpm wise. On the trails where there may be 'features' on the uphill climbs its a different story and my 42-42 combo on the fat bike with still me being fat just barely gets me up some of the blue trails and it was borderline on plowing through snow. IF I want to get any more aggressive I will have to look into something in that 50 range which will be a new derailleur too since my current one can barely handle the 42.

    Lube wise I am still happy. Yesterday I had to pull the rear wheel to remove my fenders so that meant handling the chain and it was no big deal at all, I think I just wiped my hands with a dry paper towel. Not quite clean enough to eat but plenty clean to keep working on the trail bike. If I can get a year which will hopefully be at least 1000 miles out of a $20-40 chain using this stuff I will be thrilled. I do wonder how much or if any of the Squirt is getting into the pins. I'm thinking some has to be getting in there or else it would squeak? So far my plan is to re lube roughly weekly which should be 100-200 miles unless it gets wet then will likely do an extra lube.

    Leave a comment:


  • TNC
    replied
    Originally posted by AZguy View Post
    Finally changed my chain at spot on 3000 hard miles - it had 1.5mm total stretch... was going to just keep the cassette (11-46t) but found a super deal on an open box 11-51t so figured why not?

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    I've never run anything newer than 9-speed stuff on my mountain or road bikes. It's funny, I'm a luddite in that respect while I won't skimp on my suspension components and frame design on my mountain bikes. I'm not racing or climbing Mt. Everest, so I've never seen the need to go to the high count rear cogsets...staying with 11-34 9-speed cassettes with a 2-chainring setup. Now...I've just gone to a BBSHD on an '08 Santa Cruz Nomad, and obviously this cuts you down to one chainring...and in this case the smallest I could get to maintain a really good chainline, 42T Luna Eclipse.

    So, as this point I didn't feel the 11-34 was that great for an overall gearing setup to match the 42T rear, and if I ever had to pedal this heavy beast back to a trailhead or home, the 50+ pound behemoth would be punishing without pedal assist. I found that a company called Box Components had a solution for this in the form of an 11-50T 9-speed cassette with shifter and clutched derailleur. That cassette is all steel and highly rated for ebike. It's been working like a charm so far with the BBSHD and actual mountain biking. I'm still amazed at the size of that steak platter back there, but it seems to work just fine, even across a 9-speed jump from 11-50.

    On chain lube?...I'm still in the camp of a good chain lube needing a thin, petroleum based carrier to get the lube in the links/rollers. These are not o-ring chains like my dirt motorcycles use. They benefit from the lube actually getting into the chain elements. AZguy is right in that these chain lube debates are about as bad as the "what's the best motor oil" wars that rage on and on inside the automotive and motorcycle forum sites...LOL! I'm also still a luddite when it comes to recommending White Lightning Clean Ride for various reasons too numerous to mention now since I've gone way over my usually long winded limit...LOL!

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  • AZguy
    replied
    I ran about 50mi on the new sunrace 11-51t (11sp) and everything was great. The gearing is the same in the higher gears so cadence at "cruising" speeds didn't change at all. It brings just the right amount of very low speed at a reasonable cadence I was missing and the gear steps are fine... it seemed like I was just turning too slow when at the slow speeds for technical stuff (2.5-3mph) and it brought me just enough there to make it easier to balance and avoid lugging... Pleased with it overall so far... Ran full 30A at times... shifting is very smooth as it has always been...

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  • DaHose
    replied
    I saw another company selling a 51T 10-speed cluster, so I am taking a hit for the team and testing it out. I'll report on the quality/performance once I get a chance to use it. Existing reviews are positive, so I have high hopes. I will only run that cluster at max. of 1000W with my 48V battery packs, so we'll see how it handles heavy e-bike power.

    Jose

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  • us56456712
    commented on 's reply
    In the 1970s before there was a way to get a lot of bike information I came up with using melted paraffin. Take the chain off and shake it for ten minutes in a jar of solvent. Then I used Dawn dish soap and a old tooth brush. Then I pored boiling water over the chain. After it dried I melted paraffin wax in an old porcelain pot and dumped the chain in. I occasionally stirred it up and more gunk came out as melted paraffin must have some solvent properties. The chain eventually becomes very hot. That’s when you take it out of the paraffin. Hang the chain to drip dry over newspaper. Brush of excess when cooled, flex the links and reinstall. Once a month seems good. I don’t know if this way is as good, worse or better than modern dry lube but that’s what I did. I have also used dry slide, a 100%. Dry graphite gun lube. Dirt still gets in the chain, even with dry slide and it needs to be cleaned.

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Yes but I got the silver one for $20 less ($80 vs $100) so it was clearly the "winner"!

    Back when I first contemplated getting one they were both ~$90 and I was going to get the black one but then thought why bother spending the money since it's good enough the way it is.... then my damn buddy went and bought a bike with an 11-50t so... game on!... in just a few montsh they'd gone up to $100 though.... arrrg... then I found the open box silver and bingo!


    And it will get black enough in time

  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    Sunrace offers casettes in black too.

  • AZguy
    replied
    Originally posted by Retrorockit

    My Surly 50T stainless ring is shiny too and hard to miss. That because it's on the front and not hidden behind a bunch of other stuff.
    Well mine won't stay that way - old vs. new

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  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    My Surly 50T stainless ring is shiny too and hard to miss. That because it's on the front and not hidden behind a bunch of other stuff.

  • AZguy
    replied
    Originally posted by DaHose View Post
    AZguy - Isn't that 51T GINORMOUS on the wheel? It's a trip how huge that thing looks on my new wheel. I haven't tried on the new wheels yet, so I'm unsure about chain length. Did you need to go to a longer chain, or did your existing chain from the 46T work OK?

    Jose
    It's still shiny and very hard to miss - I should get a picture of the whole bike to put it in perspective... was doing some "around the block" shake out and all the bicycle guys noticed that great big pie plate on the bike parked out in front of the pub

    I was replacing the chain at the time but yes it required more links, prolly four? I should check...

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  • DaHose
    replied
    AZguy - Isn't that 51T GINORMOUS on the wheel? It's a trip how huge that thing looks on my new wheel. I haven't tried on the new wheels yet, so I'm unsure about chain length. Did you need to go to a longer chain, or did your existing chain from the 46T work OK?

    Jose

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    replied
    Finally changed my chain at spot on 3000 hard miles - it had 1.5mm total stretch... was going to just keep the cassette (11-46t) but found a super deal on an open box 11-51t so figured why not?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	cass_2704.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	234.0 KB
ID:	127529

    Leave a comment:


  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Getting some more miles on both bikes now and I am still happy with the Squirt lube and very happy in how clean things are. Even on the trail bike with the extra dust getting kicked up its not that bad mess wise. Its very strange that more sand and junk doesn't stick to the wax because if you touch it it feels sticky like just before oil turns to grease kind of sticky but the crap doesn't really seem to want to stick to it.

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