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Anyone using or have tried a 'dry' or wax chain lube?

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  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    Me too. I haven't found a reason to try anything else.

  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Just a update to this thread. Still very happy with the Squirt lube. I'm not riding as much this year as last year but still getting out some. The 40 mile interval seems excessive so I'm back to closer to 100. It didn't seem to hurt anything just took more time. I was expecting to see more build up especially on things like jockey wheels but its really not a problem. I have not wiped or cleaned any of the chain related stuff since I installed the new chains last winter. On the street bike I did have to do a slight amount of cleaning after I found the quick link. Enough stuff had deposited itself in the slot I could not find it. Only reason I was looking is that is where I start and stop the lube job. Its not a big deal because it takes like 10 minutes for the whiteness to go away so you can tell where you started.

    I had some rear flat tire issues on the trail bike earlier in the summer and was very happy with how the lube was to handle the chain. Sure it got on my hands but it was easy to wipe off with a dry rag and barely left any signs on my hands after the job was done. I think I got more on my hands from handling the tires than I did from the chain.

    I don't recall the mileage I have on them at the moment, thinking less than 1000 miles so nothing crazy but so far my Park chain tool isn't showing any signs of dropping in indicating wear so so far no concerns there. Also no signs of issues with the cassette or chain ring. The cassette on my street bike was very well used when I got it and I think is pushing 2k miles from me now and I'm not having any slipping issues even on the small cogs. Half that time was conventional lube but its a good sign that it seems to be holding up.

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  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Haha tru that!

    I can't remember the last time I lubed the chain on the rear hub drive bike I have even though it does have a 7-sp derailleur =]

  • Diggs Ut
    commented on 's reply
    "Shift quality"? - Heh, my country cruiser may not make a shift for hours..... chuckles.....

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    For me the biggest reason to keep up on it is the shift quality - the longevity of the chain is low on the list but like you I'd prefer not to have to replace rings and cassettes each time.... although ironically I likely have, but just because it's a convenient time to _upgrade_ those parts, I never replaced them with the same part

    I think I mentioned here somewhere I once experimented by never ever maintaining the chain throughout it's entire life... Just put it on my BBSHD build and rode it... never once lubed it - it's dry enough out here in general, I don't ride in the rain and the bike lives indoors... still got 1500mi on that chain... so I did the quick math and looked at the time spent on chain maintenance divided by the cost savings of doubling of chain life I got and including ring and cassette costs it valued my time at waaaaay below minimum wage - I don't work for <$2/hr... at least not since the '60's =]

    But it was noisy and shifted like crap... well lubed it is quiet and the shifts could almost be called sensuous! But I've also gotten to where I just do a quick lube with whatever.. it's not worth wasting time or even two neurons thinking about in my opinion...

  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Ya I agree with the price of some of the lubes especially if you ride a lot and do that 40 mile interval that was mentioned you could end up spending more than the cost of the chain on lube that may just be taking up your time and making a mess. Wear on the ring and cassettes is a valid concern with a cheap cassette still being $50 pretty easily and then us BBS people dealing with at least $100 aluminum chain rings. Will $30 worth of lube in a year/season get you at least $30 worth of extra life out of those parts? I hope so.

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  • Diggs Ut
    replied
    As AZguy pointed out, replacing chains is relatively cheap especially with the cost of some of the dry lubes climbing quickly the cost of a new chain is minor. But, it's not the chain that bothers me as much as the wear and grind on the cassette and Leckie ring up front (being aluminum) that a dirty chain causes. To that end I do try to keep my chains clean and dry lubed as I always ride in dry and often dusty conditions (rails to trails). I've used Finish Line Dry Teflon and wasn't impressed. Chain was noisy and had to constantly re-lube. The Finish Line Moly is better although not a true "dry" lube I don't see much build up and lubrication has been good. I would like to try their Ceramic. WD-40 Dry Lube (for bicycles) isn't so dry. Even after applying and letting sit overnight the chain/rings are tacky and pick up quite a bit of dirt but the chain stays quiet and lubrication seems good. For cleaning I use lacquer thinner and a paint brush either on the bike and over a pan or removed and soaked in thinner in the pan. Dries in seconds.

    I've been reading the whole thread to see what others are using. I've tried a few products and am not fully satisfied yet.
    Last edited by Diggs Ut; 07-12-2021, 07:01 AM. Reason: spelling

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  • 73Eldo
    replied
    I have not been riding as much as I would like to but have been trying to do a re lube closer to 40 miles than the 100 I was shooting for before. Really doesn't seem like there is any more build up on anything from the extra lube. Chains are amazingly sticky feeling but even the bike that spends most of its time on dirt doesn't have any more build up than the pavement bike only real difference is the color from the dirt. One thing I notice is that my little 4oz bottle isn't going to get me though the summer. I now see why they sell a 16oz bottle.

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  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Around 50 miles may be the sweet spot for my street bike. Did 40 some last night and it was still nice and smooth, not even a hint of a squeak which is easier to hear now that I fixed some other noises the bike was making. The last few rides before I think I was getting hints of squeaking maybe around 60 miles. Nothing terrible like many of the bikes you encounter in the wild where even with fat tires you still hear the chain but just hints if you really listened close. When I have all the other creeks under control this bike is pretty quiet, its the one with the Big Apple tires which are basically slicks so no noise from them.

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  • Dshue
    commented on 's reply
    I've been using the Finish Line e bike lube and I like it. My purpose for buying it was it was cheap and has molybdenum in it. The moly content is what makes it different, most cyclists don't want the black mess from the moly but I don't mind it for this bike. I use the Bafang chainring guard on my BBS02 so my leg and clothes don't ever get any on them from riding. But without a guard it could make a mess. It doesn't fling off at all.

  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    That looks interesting. I would prefer the drip bottle over the spray myself. I did see a note that the mfg. was Finish Line. I looked at Finish Lines website and they make an E bike specific lubricant. Good for a whopping 350W added power! But I'll take what I can get.

  • 73Eldo
    commented on 's reply
    Does it still smell like rotten bananas?

  • Groovy2
    replied
    Tri Flow - Best Bicycle chain / Sk8 wheel bearing lube on planet - get it Black Plastic 5 oz bottle - $5 not for MC chains -

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  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    When I apply, I apply very liberally and then sort of work it all over and wipe off the excess with a paper towel

    I used to wipe them off before with a disinfecting wipe - not that I'm trying to disinfect but they are very tough and do a reasonable job cleaning them... but I've gotten to the point where I believe anything that makes it take any longer than necessary is just more likely to discourage me from doing it as frequently so now I just do the liberal application and wipe down since the whole process takes at the very most two minutes and as I've said, I'm of the notion that all that really matters for long chain life and good shifting is doing it very frequently, the rest isn't important, including what's used for the most part, and I'm not going to waste my time

  • Groovy2
    replied
    Wal mart - Dupont - Chain Saver - yellow spray can - wax and Teflon spray - works well - Lawn Chainsaw area -- $5

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